Peru Expedition Training Course
20 June - 3 July 2005
(14 days)
Climbers
prepare for their summit attempt on Tocllaraju.
The
Cordillera Blanca (White Mtn Range) provides the perfect setting
to familiarize climbers with snow and ice climbing techniques,
expedition-style camping and teamwork, crevasse rescue, and safe
glacier travel. We will establish a Base Camp in the Ishinca
Valley and make ascents of Urus, Ishinca, and Tocllaraju during
the course of our training. This is an ideal preparation
for Alaskan or Himalayan expeditions, or for those wishing to
participate in our Huascaran expedition.
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Day
1 Arrive Lima, Peru. Flights arranged w/early AM
arrival. Transfer via private mini-bus to Huaraz (3100M), the
busy center for local government, education, and tourism. The
8 hour drive will take us from the modern capital city of Lima,
along the spectacular desert coastline, up winding river canyons,
and finally over the high plains to the foothills of the mighty
Andes mountains. A restful night awaits us after dining on local
specialties. Hotel lodging.
Day 2
We will relax this morning and let our bodies recover from
the long hours of travel. We can leisurely tour the sights of
Huaraz, as well as check equipment and prepare loads for burros.
We will begin our acclimatization program with an afternoon hike
or mountain bike ride. Hotel lodging.
Day 3 We begin our training
today, driving to a location where we can begin learning snow
travel at the most basic level. First we will familiarize ourselves
with the safe and efficient use of ice-axe and crampons. Other
topics today will be self-arrest and roped travel, and basic crevasse
rescue scenarios. After a full day of training, we return to Huaraz.
Hotel lodging.
Day 4 Today we get an early
start, meeting our transportation after breakfast, and driving
to the village of Collon and the trailhead for the Ishinca Valley.
Our Arriero and his pack-burros will be waiting for us at the
entrance station for the Huascaran National Park. We will hike
with only a light day-pack, while the burros carry all other personal
and group gear. The hike takes us up through forests and meadows
to our Base Camp at 4100M, surrounded by peaks which will be our
training grounds and climbing objectives. Tent.
Day 5 Immediately above our
Base Camp lies the snow-capped summit of Urus Este, 5420 M. We
will attempt the summit via the SE Ridge, first ascending a moraine
ridge to a beautiful granite slabs and ledges, and finishing up
an exposed glacier to the summit. After lunch on the peak we will
descend to Base Camp. Tent.
Day 6 Today we will rest in
Base Camp, letting our bodies recover from the many days of travel
and give ourselves precious time to adjust to the increasing altitude.
The nearby glacial lakes and wildflower meadows will give us opportunities
to explore and photograph nearby. We can also review the glacier
rescue techniques we’ve learned and repeat practice scenarios
to build confidence and proficiency. Tent.
Day 7 Our next climbing objective
will be the 5600M summit of Ishinca. Today we will move to the
4800M Ishinca High Camp, nestled in the moraines between several
small glacial lakes. Here we will notice more fully the effects
of the increasing altitude. We have a very impressive vies of
Ishinca from camp, and can study the climbing route, and its challenges,
from the comfort of camp. Tent.
Day 8 When the sun rises today we’ll already
be well on our way to the top of Ishinca. The North Slopes Route
involves considerable glacier travel, and snow climbing up to
45 degrees. From the top we should have spectacular views of some
of the highest peaks in South America. We will have especially
great views across the valley to Tocllaraju, our next summit goal.
We should reach the summit and make our descent back to High Camp
with plenty of time remaining to descend to Base Camp. Tent.
Day 9 Another rest day in
Base Camp will be welcome today. This will also give us a chance
to work with the guides individually and in small group scenarios.
Our climbing techniques and glacier skills will be put to the
test on Tocllaraju, as well as our fitness, acclimatization, and
endurance. Tent.
Day 10 Today’s trek
is a challenge, both physically and psychologically. We wind our
way up through seemingly endless moraine switchbacks, finally
reaching the glacier’s edge. Once on the glacier, the angle
eases and we make more efficient progress to Tocllaraju High Camp
at 5250M. We will make our camp on the glacier and prepare for
tomorrow’s climb. Tent.
Day 11 We will need to make
a VERY early start today to ensure we can complete the climbing
route, as well as the descent back to High Camp, before the sun’s
warmth weakens snow-bridges over crevasses, making them hazardous
to cross. At 6055M, Tocllaraju’s summit is the high-point
of the expedition, and will provide us with panoramic views hard
to match. We may choose to remain at High Camp and wait for colder,
and safer, snow conditions in the morning. Tent.
Day 12 Today will be kept
as a reserve day in the event of poor weather or route conditions,
acclimatization needs, or rest requirements. Tent.
Day 13 Our Arriero and his
pack-burros will meet us this morning in Base Camp. By mid-afternoon
we should be finishing our trek to Collon, where our transport
will be waiting to take us back to the comforts of Huaraz. A shower,
a celebration dinner, and a soft bed will be our rewards for hard
work well-done. Hotel lodging.
Day 14 We will enjoy our final
parting views of the Cordillera Blanca this morning from the roof-top
terrace of the hotel before our transfer to Lima. Flights will
be arranged with late afternoon departures. (We are happy to arrange
lodging in Lima/ Miraflores if you wish to extend your visit.)
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