ALPAMAYO,
PYRAMID OF ICE AND DREAMS
15-30 July 2004 (16 days)
Climbers leaving Alpamayo Base Camp after a successful ascent
of the beautiful Ferrari Route.
When
children draw imaginary, far-away mountains with their paints
and crayons, usually they look something like Alpamayo.
It's pyramidal symmetry and clean esthetics set this mountain
apart from it's neighbors, and put it in the same league with
Matterhorn, Ama Dablam, and Grand Teton. With the summit
slightly below 6000M, Alpamayo is well-suited for technical climbing;
most climbers perform strongly at this elevation. Our route
of ascent is the Ferrari Route on the stunning SouthWest Face,
involving several hundred meters of steep ice climbing.
Climbers wishing to attempt this route should have extensive experience
on 45-55 degree ice, safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques,
as well as extended expedition experience.
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DAY
1 Arrive in Lima , Peru . Flights arranged w/early
AM arrival. Transfer via private mini-bus to Huaraz (3100M),
the busy center for local government, education, and tourism. The
8 hour drive will take us from the modern capital city of Lima
, along the spectacular desert coastline, up winding river canyons,
and finally over the high plains to the foothills of the mighty
Andes mountains. A restful night awaits us after dining on
local specialties. Hotel lodging.
DAY 2 We will relax this morning
and let our bodies recover from the long hours of travel. We
can leisurely tour the sights of Huaraz, as well as check equipment
and prepare loads for burros. We will begin our acclimatization
program with an afternoon hike or mountain bike ride. Hotel
lodging.
DAY 3 An early start this
morning from Huaraz will help us to beat the worst of the afternoon
heat. Private mini-bus transport will take us to the trail-head
village of Cashapampa , where we will meet our pack burros and
Arrieros (burro handlers). The first 2 days of our trek follow
the route of the classic "Santa Cruz Trek", and we will
share the trail with trekkers from around the world. Today
we will trek through a river canyon, abundant with green pastures,
wildflowers, and songbirds. Our first camp is at Llamacorral,
site of a small summer grazing settlement, 4 hours walk from Cashapampa.
DAY 4 After hiking along turquoise-blue
lakes (where our Arrieros might catch us some trout!), we will
make our secon trekking camp in a shady grove of trees. After
establishing camp, we will have ample time for a day hike further
up the Santa Cruz Valley to admire the views of Tokllaraju and
the other icy giants towering over us. The slopes here near
the Union Pass make a great place to see soaring Andean Condors.
DAY 5 This morning our trekking
route diverges from the normal Santa Cruz trek, turning out of
the main valley up a smaller side-canyon to the left. Views
of the neighboring Artesonraju grow more stunning as we climb
higher. We will make our Base Camp at 4250M nestled in the highest
Quenal trees along a rushing clear-water stream.
DAY 6 Today we will rest in
Base Camp, letting our bodies recover from the many days of travel
and give ourselves precious time to adjust to the increasing altitude. The
nearby glacial lakes and wildflower meadows will give us opportunities
to explore and photograph nearby.
DAY 7 This morning we will
carry our first loads of food, fuel, and climbing equipment to
Moraine Camp at 4800M. Our trail climbs steeply up a moraine
ridge directly above Base Camp and after winding briefly through
some slabs and rocky ledges takes us to a compact group of tent
sites. After depositing our loads, we will return to the
comforts of Base Camp.
DAY 8 With the assistance
of high-altitude Porters, we will carry the remaining camping
and climbing equipment to Moraine Camp. Our acclimatization
process continues as we push our sleeping elevation higher. After
installing camp, the Guiding team, possibly assisted by the Portering
staff, will push higher through the snow and ice slopes above
and establish a safe route for the team, fixing ropes if necessary,
before returning to Moraine Camp
DAY 9 We will spend today
as an acclimatization day at Moraine Camp, as well as reviewing
and practicing safe glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques
on the nearby glacier slopes.
DAY 10 With the assistance
of our Portering staff we will move up through the pre-established
route to our High Camp. We will find challenging, and sometimes
technical and difficult, snow and ice travel along the way. The
team will cross through the col separating Alpamayo from neighboring
Quitaraju (6040M). Sheltered from the strongest winds, our
High Camp lies at 5350M, just beyond and below the col. Spectacular
only begins to describe the position of this camp, with some of
the mightiest mountain faces of the range in full view.
DAY 11 Today will be our first
of three possible summit days. Due to the very technical
nature of the climbing on the Ferrari Route , we will split the
the team into summit groups of no more than 3 climbers. Today
the most acclimatized and well-rested climbers will make their
summit attack. We have several hundred meters of moderate
snow climbing and glacier travel, crossing several bergschrunds
and crevasses, to gain the actual start of the Ferrari Route . At
5600M the character of the climbing changes dramatically, and
from here to the summit we will climb 45-55 degree ice, steepening
at the top to near-vertical. The final few meters involve
a very intimidating knife-edge ridge traverse. For descent,
we reverse the climbing route, passing the steepest climbing by
a series of rapels. Warm drinks, dinner, and the other team
members await us at High Camp.
DAY 12 Today the second team
will make their summit attack.
DAY 13 A reserve day has been
included in the itinerary to ensure that members of all summit
teams have options in the event of poor weather or route conditions,
differing acclimatization, or to allow for extra rest. Alternately,
we can use this reserve day to attempt another climbing objective,
such as nearby Quitaraju.
DAY 14 We will pack High Camp
this morning and descend to the wildflowers and greenery of Base
Camp, retrieving all cached equipment, fixed ropes, etc... along
the way.
DAY 15 The Arrieros will arrive
with our pack-burros this morning and we will see our gear loaded
on the animals for the last time. We will trek back to Cashapampa
with only our light day-packs, a welcome change from the toils
of expedition life. Our transportation awaits us at the trailhead
for the transfer back to our hotel in Huaraz. Hot showers,
cold beer, and a well-prepared celebration dinner!
DAY
16 We will enjoy our final parting views of Huascaran
this morning from the roof-top terrace of the hotel befor our
transfer to Lima . Flights will be arranged with late afternoon
departures. (We are happy to arrange lodging in Lima / Miraflores
if you wish to extend your visit.)
NOTE: Reserve days are included
in this itinerary in case of poor weather or climbing conditions,
acclimatization differences, or need for additional rest.
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