Huascaran
(6768M), Ascend Peru's Highest Peak!
28
June-13 July, and 4-19 July 2004 (16 days)
Climbers ascending the Garganta Route, with Huascaran's North
Peak in the background.
Although
the climbing on Huascaran's Garganta Route is only moderately
difficult, climbers should be prepared for extreme cold, high
altitude, and the hardships of an extended expedition. Extra care
has been taken to ensure ample time for a safe and thorough acclimatization.
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DAY
1 Arrive Lima, Peru. Flights arranged
w/early AM arrival. Transfer via private mini-bus to Huaraz (3100M),
the busy center for local government, education, and tourism.
The 8 hour drive will take us from the modern capital city of
Lima, along the spectacular desert coastline, up winding river
canyons, and finally over the high plains to the foothills of
the mighty Andes mountains. A restful night awaits us after dining
on local specialties. Hotel lodging.
DAY 2 We
will relax this morning and let our bodies recover from the long
hours of travel. We can leisurely tour the sights of Huaraz, as
well as check equipment and prepare loads for burros. We will
begin our acclimatization program with an afternoon hike or mountain
bike ride. Hotel lodging.
DAY 3 A
morning tour of the Llanganuco Canyon, with its blue lakes and
soaring granite walls, will be our introduction to the Huascaran
National Park, a World Biosphere Reserve area rich in wildlife
and local culture. We will not be returning to Huaraz, but rather
transfer to Musho (3600M), a picturesque village nestled beneath
the impressive West faces of Huascaran North and South. Hotel
lodging.
DAY 4 It's
a short, but steep, trek to Base Camp (4200M). We'll start early
to avoid the heat of mid-day. Pack-burros will carry all our personal
and group gear, except for small day-packs with our most essential
items. Our Base Camp is huddled among the highest-growing Quenal
trees, with most impressive views of the Cordillera Negra to the
West. Tent.
DAY 5 Today
will carry the first loads of equipment to Camp 1 (4650M). A series
of tricky rock slabs above Base Camp will be our first climbing
obstacles. A steep trail then winds through more low-angle slabs
and ledges to our camp at the Lower Moraines area. This camp is
below the foot of Huascaran's West Glacier and is well-protected.
Under normal conditions this camp is snow-free and offers clean
running water. After depositing our loads we will return to Base
Camp. Tent.
DAY 6 Today
will be a well-deserved rest day in Base Camp. An additional day
and night at this elevation will support our acclimatization process.
Today we will also organize remaining remaining food, fuel, and
equipment for the final carry to Camp 1. Tent.
DAY 7 This
morning we will leave Base Camp on our push for the summit. Extra
equipment and comfort items can be left in Base Camp under custody
of our Camp Guardian. Porters will arrive today from Musho to
assist us carrying to the higher camps, keeping our loads to a
reasonable burden. Tent.
DAY 8 Today we will carry the
first loads to Camp 2 (5200M). After winding our way through the
rocky slabs of the upper moraines, we will finally set foot on
the West Glacier. Our Camp 2 is safely sheltered from any hazard
posed by the menacing seracs above. After depositing our loads
we will return to Camp 1. Tent.
DAY 9 We
will move today, with Porters and all remaining equipment, to
Camp 2.
DAY 10 Today will be a rest and
acclimatization day in Camp 2. It is crucial that we give our
bodies time to adjust to the high altitude, and arrive at Camp
3 (5950M) strong, well-rested, and ready for our summit attack.
Tent.
DAY 11 Rather than expose ourselves
twice to the objective hazard of the seracs above, we will make
the trek to Camp 3 only once with the aid of Porters. The route
through the seracs changes each year, but is always challenging.
We can count on encountering steep snow and ice climbing, 45-70
degrees. Our Camp 3 is located at Garganta Col, just below the
saddle separating the North and South peaks of Huascaran, and
sheltered from the most extreme weather. We can still expect very
cold temperatures here, possibly down to -30C. Tent.
DAY 12 A
very early alpine start will give us the needed advantage on our
summit attack. The route from the Garganta Col up the North Shoulder
to the South Summit is only moderately technical, but climbers
should be prepared for extreme cold and possibly high winds. We
plan to summit early in the morning, descending before the morning
sun weakens delicate snow-bridges over the numerous crevasses
along the route. If time and conditions allow, we can continue
our descent from Camp 3 to a lower camp. Tent.
DAY 13 Reserve day. Tent.
DAY 14 Reserve day. Tent.
DAY 15 We will continue our descent
to Base Camp, and on to Musho where we will meet our transportation.
After arriving in Huaraz, we will enjoy a special celebration
dinner and night out on the town. Hotel lodging.
DAY 16 We will enjoy our final
parting views of Huascaran this morning from the roof-top terrace
of the hotel befor our transfer to Lima. Flights will be arranged
with late afternoon departures. (We are happy to arrange lodging
in Lima/ Miraflores if you wish to extend your visit.)
NOTE: Reserve days are included
in this itinerary in case of poor weather or climbing conditions,
acclimatization differences, or need for additional rest.
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